As we approach Jamaica’s 60th anniversary of Independence we highlight Grace Wales Bonner, London’s fashion director. She is a British-born Jamaican and considered a remarkable talent in today’s top fashion echelons. She has been gaining recognition in fashion since 2014.
Wales Bonner meticulously researched topics on the African diaspora and black identity and have contributed to a broadening and evolving of menswear conversation at a global level. This is because her poignant comments on decade-spanning cultural shifts, sexuality (particularly masculinity), and societal links have sparked industry-wide debate about fashion’s role in setting and shifting the tides.
Wales Bonner, over several years, explored transatlantic connections between England and the Caribbean. She also focused on the emergence of Burkina Faso as an independent nation since splitting ties with France in 1960. She uses this inspiration to showcase the evolution of her discipline (including the Covid-19 pandemic) and how materials can be not only visually pleasing but also emotionally satisfying.
In an interview with CNN, Wales Bonner confirmed her Spring-Summer 2022 collection was inspired by Sory Sanle’s photography. He is from Burkina Faso and had an amazing studio in the 1960s/70s. Not only did he photograph there but he also captured the nightlife and music scenes at that time
Some of the background elements and the geometric flooring seen in his studio have made their way into knit jacquard tracksuits and knits. The same goes for the striped linen elements that have been incorporated into the tailored pieces. While interesting tailoring is fundamental to her design process, it is not the only thing that interests her.
It is important that her fashion contributions stand for something, culturally and visually.
When asked what does the future of fashion looks like, Wales Bonner said that fashion and menswear are heading in a very exciting direction. This brings out the best of many designers and the audience will be responsive. They value expression and beauty.
Wales Bonner strongly believes in focusing on material research. She feels it is exciting to have more opportunities to work with sustainable fabrics as they are more easily available more than ever. She references the emotional qualities of fabric that excites her. It allows her to communicate with fabric in a different way.